Ramps
Ramps, also known as Wild Leeks, boast one of the best-loved wild flavors. For the uninitiated, ramps are in the same genus as onion, garlic, and leeks (Allium spp.). All alliums, whether wild on the forest floor or farmed for the grocery store, share that somewhat sweet, spicy, and umami pungent aroma we call “oniony.” Ramps are closest to green garlic or a strongly scented leek, but have a distinctive, rousingly tempting stank to ‘em. They are less sharp than a raw onion, and share some of the buttery notes of lightly roasted garlic. The bulbs of ramps can be used in place of garlic or shallots in most recipes, though some eaters may find the funkiness of ramps off-putting in large quantities. The leaves can be used like leeks or green garlic, or in novel applications where you want an savory aromatic leaf. In recipes dedicated to the flavor or ramps, they’re nearly irreplaceable. They’re most commonly paired with salty and lactic flavors for savory and umami dishes, and can take on a surprising amount of sweetness when pickled or caramelized.
In truth, ramps are not my mainstay (or even favorite) wild allium, because the season is short and their pronounced flavor can be limiting. I tend to reach for what is both bountiful and versatile. But they are still an undeniable flavor powerhouse, and their ephemeral season makes them all the more special. They also take about seven years to reach maturity from seed, which has spawned decades-long debates about whether it is sustainable to harvest the bulbs and rootlets of these native species.
Ramps, like all alliums, need space to grow. If you’ve ever seen garlic or onions on a farm, you may have noticed they were sown with at least several inches of space between them; crowding alliums can cause bulb rot or stifle growth. While it is certainly possible to overharvest ramps, it is also sometimes the case that thinning a patch by harvesting the bulbs will lead to healthier populations.
I think black-and-white rules about what can and can’t be harvested tend to overshadow the importance of deeply knowing the the harvested population. There is no substitution for developing a reciprocal relationship with the land, which leads to a more nuanced understanding of how to sustain and regenerate. Rather than focusing on the presence of bulbs or rootlets, focus on the presence and qualities of the forager harvesting the plant. And if you’re feeling dubious of my takes on sustainable ramp harvest, don’t just take my word for it. Talk to other career foragers, or watch this new video from Sam Thayer.
But back to the cooking. Ramps are one of the few traditionally foraged ingredients that have broken into mainstream American food media (bested perhaps only by morel mushrooms). As such, there’s no shortage of ramp recipes in the world - there’s even multiple other ramp soccas. I always prefer recipes that feel unfussy with a dispropriationaly big flavor payoff, so here are the top three I turn to and recommend:
Hank Shaw’s Sweet and Sour Ramps
Forager Chef’s Fermented Ramp Leaf Soy Sauce
Chris Wegan’s Ramp Kimchi
Find the Flavor
Find Ramps
✓ Forage yourself in Eastern North America
✓ Check your local farmer’s market or specialty grocer
✓ Buy from Foragers on Etsy
✓ Buy Ramps directly from Foragers on Foraged
Find Ramp Products
✓ Dried Ramp Leaves from Burlap & Barrel
✓ Ramp Vinegar from Lindera Farms
✓ Ramp Salt from Tannenbaum Wild Foods
References & Resources
Native American Ethnobotany Database: tricoccum
NPR: Exploring the Stinky Science of Alliums
Sam Thayer Youtube: The Sustainable Harvest of Ramps
Son of a Bear Ramps Article
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